Sunday, 21 April 2013

All eyes on Paris

It's an exciting time in the fashion industry at the moment as some of its key players and biggest talents are currently embroiled in a continuing game of musical chairs.

Saint Laurent Autumn/Winter 2013/14 
Image courtesy of salon.com

We've had the long overdue return of revolutionary 90's designer Jil Sander, pioneer of the minimalism movement, to her namesake label. This, of course, was the result of Raf Simons' most publicised move to Dior. Then we had the appointment of New York's cool kid Alexander Wang at another French mega-brand, Balenciaga. Oh, and lest we forget Hedi Slimane's powerful debut for Saint Laurent at Paris Fashion Week last October. Who could forget such a dazzling display of wide-brimmed hats and elaborate pussybow blouses that seemed to exude a playful austerity?

This week brings the news that the Grand Master of haute couture, Christian Lacroix- who has been on somewhat of a hiatus from the fashion world since his label went into administration in 2009- will be designing a capsule couture collection for none other than The House of Schiaparelli.

Elsa Schiaparelli, Chanel's Italian rival, set up her label in 1927 and enjoyed over two decades as fashion's modernist darling. Her collaborations with celebrated surrealist artist Salvador Dali produced some of the most iconic designs in fashion's history, including the infamous Lobster Dress. Schiap, as she was known by her nearest and dearest, closed the doors to her maison for good in 1954 and since then not much has been heard from the once eponymous label. There were murmurs surrounding the House of Schiaparelli when it was bought by the Tod's group seven years ago, however nothing (wearable) materialised.

Schiaparelli's Lobster Dress
Image courtesy of thehistoryblog.com

Nothing, that is, until now. For I have an insurmountable feeling that Lacroix's collection will be nothing if not wearable; it will almost certainly be one of the most desirable collections of couture fashion week.

It could also turn out to be one of the most surprising shows. At least, that's what Christian Lacroix is hoping anyway. He told the Telegraph's Lisa Armstrong: 'I don't want to copy [Elsa Schiaparelli] but try to extract the quintessence of her style which is relevant today. Her heritage is much too often reduced and simplified with emphasis on the crazy, surrealistic side of her clothes. But she could do practical, modern and pure, too, especially during the war. I'm excited to create not what everyone expects.'

As much of the fun and games seems to be taking place in Paris, I am particularly intrigued to see what next season's couture collections will have to offer in July!

Saturday, 20 April 2013

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Wednesday, 13 March 2013

Armani's Triumph

I must admit that it took me quite some time to compose this first post. Should I begin with a big introduction? Proclaim my motivation and layout my agenda? But, frankly, the whole 'Hello, my name is...' seemed far too primary school and eventually I reasoned that all would become clear soon enough.

And so, with the awkward not-an-introduction introduction over with, I shall proceed. And where better to start than with the recent shenanigans from the latest round of international Fashion Weeks?

I find myself in somewhat of a predicament following this year's autumn/winter shows. It is the very same, though slightly heightened, predicament I that have been in since last September. You see, I love fashion and certainly consider myself a material girl (pun intended). I love animals too, just not together.

I know this will infuriate and go against the grain of every fashion editor out there, but I'm afraid I like my furs adorning the creatures that nature intended. Which, evidently, is a view that is not shared by the world's most prestigious designers, as everyone from Muiccia (chinchilla cuffs anyone?) to Marc Jacobs- heads, tails and all- sent models draped in fur marching down their catwalks this season. And not just the customary fur-trimmed coats that have never really gone away. No, for autumn/winter 2013 we have been offered everything from furry headscarves, courtesy of Ermanno Scervino, to whole fox tail hairpieces, which, when worn as demonstrated by Marni's punk girls, resembles a rather dramatic mohican.


Fendi Autumn/Winter 2013/14
Image courtesy of www.eyeweardaily.com

And so my predicament is this: how does one who is fundamentally opposed to fur appreciate and fall in love with collections that have used, between them, what seems to be an entire jungle of fur? Or, to put it more simply: what is one to wear next season?

Answer: Emporio Armani. The don of luxurious simplicity has struck gold again with his fur faux-hair- a wonderfully endearing term coined by the Telegraph's Luke Leitch- which masterfully tapped into this mega trend without skinning or de-tailing any animals.

Armani's innovative brushed mohair was used for classic round necked jumpers, cute drop waist dresses and extra wide trousers, made all the more effective by their sugary soft pastel hues. A truly fabulous, not to mention stylish, way to wear 'fur', in my humble, pro-animal opinion.

And besides, if Armarni can shun real fur and still be considered the epitome of luxury and style, then that's all the validation I need.

Emporio Armarni Autumn/Winter 2013/14
Image courtesy of fashion.telegraph.co.uk