Saint Laurent Autumn/Winter 2013/14
Image courtesy of salon.com
We've had the long overdue return of revolutionary 90's designer Jil Sander, pioneer of the minimalism movement, to her namesake label. This, of course, was the result of Raf Simons' most publicised move to Dior. Then we had the appointment of New York's cool kid Alexander Wang at another French mega-brand, Balenciaga. Oh, and lest we forget Hedi Slimane's powerful debut for Saint Laurent at Paris Fashion Week last October. Who could forget such a dazzling display of wide-brimmed hats and elaborate pussybow blouses that seemed to exude a playful austerity?
This week brings the news that the Grand Master of haute couture, Christian Lacroix- who has been on somewhat of a hiatus from the fashion world since his label went into administration in 2009- will be designing a capsule couture collection for none other than The House of Schiaparelli.
Elsa Schiaparelli, Chanel's Italian rival, set up her label in 1927 and enjoyed over two decades as fashion's modernist darling. Her collaborations with celebrated surrealist artist Salvador Dali produced some of the most iconic designs in fashion's history, including the infamous Lobster Dress. Schiap, as she was known by her nearest and dearest, closed the doors to her maison for good in 1954 and since then not much has been heard from the once eponymous label. There were murmurs surrounding the House of Schiaparelli when it was bought by the Tod's group seven years ago, however nothing (wearable) materialised.
Schiaparelli's Lobster Dress
Image courtesy of thehistoryblog.com
Nothing, that is, until now. For I have an insurmountable feeling that Lacroix's collection will be nothing if not wearable; it will almost certainly be one of the most desirable collections of couture fashion week.
It could also turn out to be one of the most surprising shows. At least, that's what Christian Lacroix is hoping anyway. He told the Telegraph's Lisa Armstrong: 'I don't want to copy [Elsa Schiaparelli] but try to extract the quintessence of her style which is relevant today. Her heritage is much too often reduced and simplified with emphasis on the crazy, surrealistic side of her clothes. But she could do practical, modern and pure, too, especially during the war. I'm excited to create not what everyone expects.'
As much of the fun and games seems to be taking place in Paris, I am particularly intrigued to see what next season's couture collections will have to offer in July!
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